London Fashion Week AW16: Minki Cheng Presentation

According to the press release handed to me on entrance, Minki Cheng looked to retro entertainment of his generation for his AW16 collection, taking inspiration from his childhood memories of anime robots, warriors and guardians. He makes fantasy wearable in this modern world by mixing vibrant colours, complex textures and contrasting shapes. Of course with any art form, fashion too is open to interpretation and this is mine.

Walking into the Minki Cheng AW16 presentation, you feel instantly transported to another world. The whole room is full of the sound of eerie, moaning music which pulls you towards the scene, transfixed in a sort of trance. The magical collection is presented on a moss-like carpet, complete with twisting dark green reeds and the odd small Perspex dome, that could be interpreted as either the ocean floor or another planet’s surface. The collection is gradually revealed as one of the five models carefully steps off this fluffy carpet, making sure not to entangle her spindly silver heels as she goes, to make way for her comrade.

I am instantly taken by the first silhouette right in front of me: a silver, pleated maxi skirt complete with pink and orange fluffy ruffles that remind me of the coral reef paired with a simple but beautiful navy cropped jumper, also complete with coral reef ruffles. I soon realise that these super cute ruffles decorate many of the pieces in Minki Cheng’s AW16 collection, which mixes season appropriate metallics and fun pops of colour perfectly.

Of course the stand out piece is the egg-shaped metallic bomber jacket/dress, which comes in both bronze and turquoise and is simply worn zipped right up to a V neckline. Once again I see an ‘under the sea’ theme forming here with the wispy texture of the bomber reminding me of sea urchins.

The more tailoured pieces make up in shapes what they may lack in colour. The wide leg trousers fall beautifully from a high, pinched in waistline and the block line motif carefully breaks up what would otherwise be a rather overwhelming silhouette. The biker style jackets are perfectly cropped and have an interesting double zip feature at the front, which avoids the look of a slightly awkward jacket zipped up at one side as we have all experienced with this style of jacket. These looks are an inspired contrast from an otherwise leggy presentation featuring many miniskirts and zipped up dress-jackets.

Minki Cheng's AW16 collection is exquisite, interesting and I found it hard to leave the presentation - I was addicted. I love the metallics, varying textures and shapes and of course the quirky fluffy decorations. The accessories are certainly the icing on the cake with some models wearing one large hoop earring decorated with string, fluff and/or bells while one long leg warmer bridges the gap between mini mini hemlines and strappy metallic heels. 

Do you like Minki Cheng's AW16 collection? What is your interpretation?

Izzie x

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LFW: Favourite Collections AW15

Shrimps

If I had to describe this collection in one word, it would undoubtedly be FUN. I love how child-like (in a good way) the clothes are, showing that even though the weather may be gloomy it does not mean your wardrobe has to be for AW15. I am so happy to see that colourful fur in all shapes and forms is here to stay next season, whether it be a fluffy lined coat collar or a full on multi-coloured fur coat. 

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S'il faudrait utiliser qu'un seul mot pour décrire cette collection, ce serait être FUN, sans doute. Je kiffe comment les vêtements ont une côté enfantine (dans un bon sens), montrant qu'il ne faut pas que vos fringues ressemblaient le temps sombre pour automne-hiver 15. Je suis trop contente de voir que la fourrure colorée restera pour la saison prochaine dans tous ses formes, d'un manteau avec un col en fourrure à un manteau en fourrure multi-coloré! 

1205

Sometimes less is more and for AW15 1205 gives us simplicity at it’s finest. The collection consists of just 4 colours: white, navy, grey and khaki; neutral shades which enables the shapes of the clothes to stand out much more. Amazing tailoring in flowing straight lines that flatters the body rather than drowning it. The looks have a uniform feel with many consisting of just one of the 4 key colours. I love the layering, which 1205 shows is not just a necessity for AW15 but a style statement too.

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Des fois, la simplicité, un plus et cela est ce que 1205 nous donne pour la collection de automne-hiver 15. Elle consiste de quatre couleurs seulement: blanc, bleu foncé, gris et kaki; des nuances neutres qui mettent des formes des pièces plus en valeur. Du façonnage magnifique et droit qui flatte le corps au lieu de le couvrir. Ces looks ressemblent un peu des uniformes et beaucoup consiste de qu'un des quatre couleurs mentionnées. J'aime bien les couches - une nécessité? Pas seulement pour 1205, elles font partie du style aussi.  

Felder Felder

No matter the season and ignoring current trends, I am always drawn to collections featuring lace, sheer and lots of black. It's the 13 year-old wannabe goth inside of me and she loves Felder Felder's new collection. It's sexy, it's bare and it's elegantly beautiful. Of course it's not an exclusively black collection, there is the odd flash of white, colourful pattern and bright fur but my favourite piece has to be the shiny silver bell bottom flares. They are magnificent. An effortless and perfect collection from fashion's favourite twins. 

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Si j'ignore la saison et les tendances actuelles, j'aime toujours les collections dans lequel il y a de la dentelle, les matières extra-fines et plein de noir. C'est à cause du gothique aspirant de 13 ans dans moi et elle adore la nouvelle collection de Felder Felder. Elle est sexy, elle est épurée et elle est belle avec classe. Bien sûr, la collection n'est pas qu'en noir, il y a un peu de blanc, un motif coloré et de la fourrure vive mais ma pièce préférée est le pantalon pattes d'eph argenté, sans doute. Il est magnifique. Une collection parfaite de l'air sans effort de nos jumelles favorites de la mode.

Simone Rocha

Historic, romantic and dark are the best words to describe Simone Rocha's AW15 collection and I love it. Think tapestry patterns, flowing shapes and lots of ruffles that even Henry VIII would've been proud of. This collection has everything whether you want super sexy exposed midriffs and sheer or sturdy tapestry capes and dresses. I love the use of one of my favourite materials, velvet, especially this knee-length coat!

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Historique, romantique et sombre: ce sont les meilleurs mots pour décrire la collection de Simone Rocha pour automne-hiver 15. Il y a des motifs de tapisserie, des formes fluides et plein de ruches que l'ancien roi d'Angleterre Henry VIII aurait trop aimé. Cette collection a tout, des abdomens nus super sexy aux capes et robes dûrs en motif tapisserie. Je kiffe l'usage d'un de mes matières favorites, velours, surtout ce manteau!

Conclusion...

So there is just a snippet of some of my favourite collections from London Fashion Week. I could keep writing as I loved so many collections and I would advise checking out: House of Holland, Emilio de la  Morena, Ryan Lo, Christopher Raeburn, Burberry Prorsum, Sophia Webster, Matthew Williamson and Jonathan Saunders, just to name a few…

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Voilà juste quelques de mes collections favorites de Fashion Week de Londres. Je pourrais continuer à écrire cet article parce que j'ai aimé plein de collections, alors je vous conseille de regarder: House of Holland, Emilio de la  Morena, Ryan Lo, Christopher Raeburn, Burberry Prorsum, Sophia Webster, Matthew Williamson and Jonathan Saunders, pour nommer juste quelques uns...

Izzie x

Image source: vogue.co.uk

PFW Haute Couture 2015: Three French Greats

Chanel

A Chanel catwalk show at Paris’ Grand Palais is always a must see and once again Karl Lagerfeld did not disappoint! The theme this year was a Chanel garden that blossomed as a Chanel gardener circled it with a watering can. The show started with a few bold coloured 60s suits, which were quickly replaced by many updated versions of the iconic Chanel Tweed suit, with lots of midriffs on show, large mesh hats and crystallised floral beanies. The collection then moved from modern tailoring to flowing, loose and, most importantly, floral dresses.  This is by far my favourite part of the collection as I’m a sucker for transparent/mesh material and I loved all the flowers – perfect for SS15!

Il faut toujours regarder le défilé de Chanel au Grand Palais et encore une fois Karl Lagerfeld ne nous a pas déçu! Cette année le thème est un jardin de Chanel qui fleuri quand un jardinier l'encercle avec un arrosoir. On commence par quelques costumes de couleurs vives de style années 60. Ensuite, on bouge vite à plein de versions du costume tweed iconique de Chanel, cette fois plus moderne avec des hauts qui montre l'abdomen, des gros chapeaux en filet et des bonnets en laine fleuris. Au final on bouge des looks ajustés et moderne aux robes amples, flottantes et fleuries. C'est sûr que je préfère cette partie car j'aime trop du tissu en filet/transparent et tous les fleurs sont parfaits pour printemps-été 15!

Jean Paul Gaultier

A cloud of dry ice surrounds a beautiful bride who kicks off the Jean Paul Gaultier couture show wearing a gorgeous white strapless mesh floor-length dress with a split right up the front revealing high-waisted silk knickers. Then come the wedding guests sporting looks of different styles, colours and fabrics to make this collection as varied as any wedding party would be. My particular favourites are those mixing black with cream tones and using a range of materials from lace and mesh to satin. Of course, I particularly enjoy the bringing together of classic tailoring and beautiful girly pleated dresses as well. An absolutely stunning collection from a haute couture pro.

Une nuance de neige carbonique entoure une belle mariée pour dresser le décor du défilé couture de Jean Paul Gaultier. Elle porte une robe longue en filet blanc sans bretelles avec une déchirure devant qui révèle des culottes taille haute en soie. Ensuite, il y a des invitées de mariage dans des looks de style, couleurs et tissus différents pour permettre une collection variée comme serait une vraie fête de mariage. Mes looks favoris sont ceux qui mélange du noir et de la crème en utilisant une gamme de matières de dentelle et filet à satin. Bien-sûr, j'aime bien les belles robes plissées qui emprunte aussi le look ajusté. Une collection divine d'un pro en haute couture.

Christian Dior

This is what I call a truly modern couture collection. Creative Director Raf Simons is daring, bold and has designed outfits that a young fashionista can relate to. From printed technicolour catsuits to 60s style mini dresses and full A-line ballerina skirts; this collection has everything. I absolutely love the printed plastic transparent raincoats, having been lusting over for them years. Looks like Simons got the Lagerfeld memo, or vice versa, when it comes to embellishments for SS15. This collection is covered in sequins, showing that sparkles are not just for Christmas - hooray!

Voilà c'est la vraie haute couture moderne. Directeur Créatif Raf Simons est osé, audacieux et a crée une collection à laquelle la fashionista jeune peut relier. Des combinaisons en motifs technicolors aux mini-robes de style années 60s et des jupes longues et pleines comme une ballerine, cette collection est parfaite. J'aime trop les vestes de pluie plastiques transparentes en motifs, évidemment vu que je les kiffe depuis des années. De plus, c'est comme Simons a reçu le mémo de Lagerfeld, ou vice versa, concernant des embellissements pour printemps-été 15. Cette collection inclus plein de paillettes, montrant qu'elles ne sont pas que pour Noël - hourra! 

Izzie x

Image sources: Vogue and Telegraph

Iris Cantabri Pre-Fall 2015

I was so pleased to be invited to view Iris Cantabri's Pre-Fall collection, having discovered this young French brand last season and totally loving it (check out my review of SS15 here). Continuing the 'create your own look' theme, this collection includes tops and skirts made from a mix of wool, polyester and paper for warmth during colder months. 

Of course, thanks to the cleverly thought out zip system, you can mix and match the SS15 and AW15 collections to create, seemingly, an unlimited number of looks.

Artistic director and founder of the brand Guillaume Michel was kind of enough to talk me through the collection, his influences and inspirations. I was particularly taken by how he had translated his study of African masks to his designs and the result is both entertaining and beautiful. 

If this is just the pre-fall collection, I am dying to see what this amazing young fashion house will produce for AW15 in a couple of months!

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J'étais trop contente d'être invité de voir la collection "pré-fall" d'Iris Cantabri, une jeune maison française que j'ai découvert la saison dernière et que je kiffe. En continuant l'idée de "Prêt à Personaliser", cette collection inclus des hauts et des jupes fabriqués d'un mélange de la laine, du polyester et du papier pour donner chaud pendant les mois d'hiver. Grace au système de fermeture bien planifié, vous pouvez mélanger les collections printemps-été 15 et pré-fall 15 pour créer, apparemment, un nombre de looks illimités. 

Le directeur artistique et fondateur de la maison Guillaume Michel m'a parlé de la collection, ses influences et inspirations. J'étais impressionnée comment il a utilisé ses études de masques africains dans la collection et le résultat est à la fois divertissant et beau. 

C'est juste la collection "pre-fall", du coup j'ai trop hâte de voir ce que cette jeune maison de mode produira pour automne-hiver 15 dans deux mois!

Izzie x   

PFW: Cédric Charlier X Petit Bateau

On Friday night I was lucky enough to go to the capsule collection launch of Cédric Charlier X Petit Bateau at the Palais de Tokyo. Belgian designer and former Artistic Director at Cacherel, Cédric Charlier collaborates with French children's wear brand Le Petit Bateau to create a dynamic collection, featuring the iconic Petit Bateau stripes, of course. The clothes pay tribute to the art of movement, which is demonstrated in the beautiful installation images and contemporary dance show with the dancers wearing the collection. Stripes are one of my massive weaknesses, I think I have bought about 5 different striped tops since being in Paris, so I loved the collection. The quality of the clothes is excellent, being made from thick, soft cotton I can imagine it would be very comfortable to wear!

Keep checking back for more Paris Fashion Week posts throughout the next week and follow me on Instagram for instant updates!

Izzie x